GENGAS.SE
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GENGAS.SE
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Film i SVT:s arkiv:Snöröjning i Stockholm(GENGAS)
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You might see the "securitycover" inside the airbox!
In this skiss you find the parameters you need (dh=diameter/hearth =1dh) to acount the exact messure for the gasifire- (If you follow thoes parameters it gives you a perfect balans in the gasifire, the resoult is almost no hangings and the col dosent be to muth or litle, makes your cleening more easy cous you dont have to do it that often!) The messures in this exemple are for a 2 liter engine. You multiply the hearth size throo all this parameters and you get the exact fit to the generator, for your engine. 1.Hearth-Diameter =1dh 2.Nozzlering-Inner-Diameter =2.6dh 3.Nozzlering-Outher-diameter =3.4dh 4.Nozzle -Diameter inside messure =see diagram below(the commun size) Most common is 5 nozzlers on bigger engines you might use up to 7 - 8 maby but on very big engines up to 10. hte most inportent is that the messure put together is followed from the diagram. 5.Hight betwen the nozzlering and the hearth Narrowing =1.2dh 6.Hight from the Narrowing down to the hearth"cone"s end =1dh 7.Length of nozzlers=the messur between the inner and outher diameter of the Nozzlerings diameters 8.The cones end-diameter =2.5dh You multiply the herthdiameter with thoes parameters and you get the right messures you need! The Roster is usely set ca 80mm from the hearthcons end! if you want it closer I sudgest you put up the messure on the lenght at the cones end with as muth you take avay! so it stays at the same messure as it was from the Narrowing! The roster from the botton shud usaly be at ca:40mm An air seald hatch shuld be mountied so you easy can reach the upper of the roster oand below, the ash area. ant to think of is that the roster is not that tight at the cone so you can´t fill upp the reductionzone with col. shud be so muth so it cover the end-hole of the con and around atleast 50-100 mm up on the outside of it,and be filled upp inside upp to the hearth-narrowing! In this area I use coks blendid with the col! keeps the heat up more efective. the materia of the own (reductionzone) you need to use at least 4 mm in thicknes of the wall around. When you take out the Generatorwoodgas (gengas) from the generator I come to that it is best to take it out so it spinns (like in the cyklon) inside the reduktionzone! this makes the hearth get the same heat all around, and it cleans the reduktionzone from smaler particals at the same time! You do this by mouting the tube(2"-3")as high as posible at (Q like this pin that makes the=Q) the wall, and so the gas can spinn/rotate The nozzlers size you find out in this diagram
and what size you have on oyur 4stroke engine i liters (1,5 to 8,8liter is displayed. It will cover the most common engines I gess?),you find out what size there shud be at the hearth-diameter in millimeter OBS!! The messurs is in millimeter! On left side it says: InnerNozzlerDiameter put together -You hawe to devers this messure with how many Nozzlers you goona use. Importent: One of the nozzlers must bee sittig right inside the primary airbox so you be able to see right through it (were the air comes in to the generator) So you, when needed to inspect the hearth Very easy. You just take a woodenpin and stick that pin in the airbox, lift the "securitycover" by pushing at it, with the pin. Here you now be able to see right in to the hearth and how the fire is good or not.(when the generator is burning) In the airbox you need a "securitycover" that stopps the gas coming out when ithe gasifiregenerator blows/sneesies. This cover is to be hanged inside the airbox in two small rings so it never be stuc and easy opens the airflow and closes upp direct and easy!
An easier diagram for counting the generatorhearth. But this you cant find out nuzzlers joined inside-aria messure.
Translation: Secundary air-trottle justment device shud be placed,easy to reach from the driverspace. best I think is to the left of the wheel. The key is often placed to the right. Reglage vid förarplats=Justment placed by the driverseat Sekundärluft=Secundary air Motor=Engine Gengas=Woodgas På och avstängnings spjäll för gengasen reglage vid förarplats=On and off throtle, justmentdevice by the driverplayce 2"tube is good enough for the blender! (this works good.use this cind in the Toyota and the Volvo) then it is rather importent that te throtels close upp tight. I rather use corrotionfreesteel in thoes. the making of thoes I use the wessure from the inner size of the tube and draw 2 circels just over eathother were I´l take thoes circles a part that muth so the throttle dont have the chans to flip over inside of the tube, when adjusted. aproxly 5mm use to be enough for a 2" tube
2st raws of tubes 1/2" It´s just a skiss. but you get the idé. As you see there is 2 walls in the bottom box whith a 2"tube in between of thoes. The gas goes up on side of that tube through the coolertubes to the upperbox were the gas goes to eatch side of it ,then down through the rest of the coolertubes. Then the gas goes down in the bottom of the cleaner were the gas goes up trough the cleaningmaterial "cutten wooden" The heatglowcleening device is just a can that is mounted on top of the cyclon, were the gas still is hot, inside of this can just push down a fine masked steelnet around 1mm in the holes (1mm betwen the threds) in till the can is full. I think it works with steeltredballs as is a clining device for dishis puwerfuller than steelwool.Might work to. The Idé is that it shud start to glow becous of the heat from the gasifire,so the colparticals gets to be smaller and more gas is drown out from the col- the glowing needs oxygen and this gives more hydrogen out from the "watergas" (it´s to hot to be steem) I´l gess over 4-500 digre celcius! I´t shud be around 1200-1300 in the hearth and even upp to 1500. I make the hearth so col and achis gets to be able to lay on the materia of it. that has been burned so it eint gonna burn no more. insted it covers the hearth-materia so it will hold better from the heat. outherwise it melts. the heat does not go over this limit 1500 becous it have to tplit the water in the wood to oxygen and hydrogen and the amonging of hydrogen is affected by the heat in the hearth and as more of the oxygen that can be burned out the recomming of the "watergas" to be water be smaller! Ignition: The Sparkplugs you might need to give less size between were the ignitionspark goes so the engine will get easier to start. The sparkplug needs to be a hotter one than usely! so it burns out water and carbon from the plugg and burns clean more easy. In the books that I´ve red,it says that the ignition schuld be at least 15 digrees ahad. But the bes is to put a wire on so you be able to adjust it from inside the car. so you can be able to reach the best ignition timing posible. Starting: Starting of the gasifire woodgas-generator! My way to start my gasifier works like this. I have my gengasfan put in the end of the system on the tube were the secondary air goes in-it gets the car to start more easy. First I open the filling-hatch at the gasifire and fills it up, and se to that it is fuel(carboned wood) in the hearthzone, then I open the secondary-air valv, then I start the fan, With the hatch open at first, letting the fan go for at least 20 seconds so that any explosive gas is gone. Closies the hatch and listen so there is no leaks, and so I can hear the "securitycover" tap inside the primary air box. in the right tempo(tick tick tick tick and so on) if it does not,something is not right, most of the times I´l just forgot to close a crane for spill-water to one of the gas-cleaners. Then I rip a side of a paper and makes it to a paperpin that I stick in to the primary hole in to the airbox and lightning it up with a cigarett-lighter. the fan sucks in the flames that egniting the pyrolys. Then I go infront of the car to wait intill the smoke that comes out ov the gas-test tube(Secondaryair-tube) thicks some. gets som kind of yellow/brown and trys to egnite it with my lighter. -When it burns with a stady flame that is stuck at the end of that test-tube it´s ready to work the engine. I jumps upp in the driverseat and turn of the switch for the fan, laying my left hand at the lawnmowerhandle that I use for secondaryair handle. turns the key inthe egnition and the engine starts to spin, not more than allmost one turn and it egnites.Now I slowly turn the secondary air handle to the plays were it mst commen works best,then after a second I often need to close it a little then again turn it back so the walv opens some again. Now when the engin is spinning like a cat (Spinns so smothly) It is just to put the gear in Drive and put the throttle down and drive the car as any car at all. With the diffrent that to hold an eye at the secondary air! The chevy runs allmost at (cleaned generator) a topspeed 70 mph or 120 kmh but uphill it wont go that fast! But the car hadle to pull a 5kbm trailer full whith wet wood,with no problems. The car just drages on! my generator at the chevy I have had now for i think 4 years or some now! I have droven it for at least 1000miles 15000kilometer 1500swedish mil! I have change the engine once from I-6 to V-8 and repered the generator a copple of times. The most common is that when someting at the gasifire brakes down, It happens at the wintertime. so fun to laying under a car in snow and ice And it i coold and dark to! |
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